For the first time in European history, women wore pants publicly during the First and Second World War. Until then it had been very clear distinction between women and men and how they dressed. Pants were strictly for men. Still in the beginning of last century there was a saying that a women wearing pants was a sign of the end of the world. (See a short film in Finnish about how women got pants).
Wearing pants meant among many other things, that skiing became easier for women. (Photo by Suomen Urheilumuseo)
Pants and pantsuit in women's fashion have signified a radical change in fashion and reflect the many changes that have happened in the political, cultural and economic development of western world during the past 100 years.
Paul Poiret is said to be the first one who designed a pantsuit for women in 1925. His slightly earlier orientalist designs, jupe-culotte or harem pants were not widely taken in to the fashion world. He was a critique of western world and by introducing harem pants to the French fashion world he started a new era.
Coco Chanel and her vision of modern women was however the one who is remembered from being the pioneer in reinventing women’s fashion. Worn by Marlene Dietrich, the new look, hit the headlines in Europe. The image of the German American actress is very classy, and indeed, very inspiring.
The pantsuit tells a lot about the design philosophy of Coco Chanel early and ground breaking philosophy. Comfort and streamlined simplicity was very avant-garde during the decade when women frequently wore tight up corsets.
The TAUKO AW18 collection introduces pantsuit that is following the ideals that are clearly seen in the legendary work of Coco Chanel. The soft jersey turtleneck shirt is combined with slightly loose, slim leg trousers with detailed plead on the leg. The cropped blazer has light collars that emphasize the relaxed look. It is a combination that we wish to continue the tradition of comfortable design that also transmits the ideals of equality. All the items are made from recycled and surplus textiles in Finland and Estonia.
Text: Mila Moisio